Feel what I feel, see what I see and cry as I do on my journey through my service in the Peace Corps.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Mini Peace Corps Adventure
After a 6
hour bumpy uncomfortable journey, Sarah and I arrived in Dakar, Senegal. That
evening I was picking up my mom in from Los Angeles. Not only would it be my mom’s
first time in Africa but it also was her first time meeting my girlfriend,
Sarah. Let’s just say I was nervous. But everything went swimmingly. No bags
were lost or stolen and I knew just enough French to get us back to the hotel.
And yes yes, Sarah and my mom got along great, except for ganging up on me a
little bit.
Dakar is one
of West Africa’s most metropolitan cities. So Sarah and I eased her into
African life. But it was kind of the opposite for Sarah and I. Not having been
in a city with buildings over 3 stories since leaving America. Riding an
elevator was a new experience again. Don’t even get me started on grocery
stores with 20 different types of cereals. We are used to only having one
option- corn flakes. We were only in Dakar for 2 days because she wasn’t here
to see Dakar, she came to see The Gambia.
So we took
what Sarah and I called uncomfortable and my mom called amazing, 6 hour ride to
Gambia. We crossed the border and decided to take a taxi instead of local
transport back to my village. We would stay only one night this first time
being that it was late and its easier to cross the river in the morning time.
As we pulled up to the village the taxi started spitting black smoke and
spraying fluids, I said, “Welcome to the Gambia!”
It was
December 29th and it was my mom’s birthday. It was my first time in
5 years spending her birthday with her. I think it meant a lot to her but you
will have to ask her. The three of us spent the day on the beach just relaxing
after many days of traveling.
The coastline
of Gambia is not what you expect of a 3rd world country. Beautiful
white sandy beaches with dark blue clean waters. Resorts have capitalized on
the natural beauty and started a semi successful tourist track on the coast.
The brits call it the budget vacation. It’s like a $100 flight from England and
very inexpensive once you have arrived. I told you all that to tell you we
stayed at the Sheraton Resort at the cost of the Holiday Inn in New York. HAH.
Sarah also partook in our luxury tour of The Gambia. Neither of us had been
there before and we were both blown away that this kind of stuff existed in
Gambia. At the same time, the staff were blown away that we could speak local
language. One staff member almost fell over laughing so hard that Sarah could
speak Mandinka. Needless to say we talked more with the staff at the Sheraton
than the other guests. In reality, at this point in our lives we had a lot more
in common with the staff then the rest of the quests. When it came time to
leave we had 3 guards, 2 gardeners, and a driver walk us to the gate of the
Sheraton. Gambians are naturally very hospitable people, so what these men were
doing was walking us out of their compound as friends that had came to visit.
From the Sheraton we went to Sarah’s village, which is one of the poorest
regions in Gambia.
There we did
what you do in village, relax and greeted(chat/visit)people in village. Sarah’s
family taught my mom how to eat with her hands as we all ate from the same food
bowl. At nights we played with the kids and sat by the fire (in cold seasons,
nights get into the 60s).
Being a mini
PC experience it was important for my mom to give something back to the
community. She brought graphing calculators to donate to another PCV for her calculus
students. This volunteer works at the oldest school in Gambia and one of the
only boarding schools in the country. The volunteer is involved in a project to
build a math room at the school for tutoring and other math resources. Before
my mom donated the calculators there was only one graphing calculator for 10
students. It is so important to contribute to higher levels of education
because these are the students that will help shape Gambia. With more highly
educated students, Gambia has a great chance for further development.
The last 8
days of my mom’s 3 ½ week visit was in my village. It is customary for a
visitor to meet the village elders. So on the second day she was here she
walked around to see the alkalo (village leader/chief), the Imam (head of the
Muslim mosque) and several village elders whom we would be offending if we
didn’t greet them. The head of the women’s group Mam Gaye, was by far the most
animated. She started out with a squeal of excitement, 2 kisses and a hug (all
being quite abnormal for a Gambian woman.) Then she proceeded to speak really
fast, a little too fast for me to translate everything, say how happy she was
to have her in her village and what a great job I was doing. Then she started
running around the house trying to find something, it you can’t tell, she has a
lot of energy for a 60 year old woman. She finally came back with a necklace
that she wanted to give to my mom. After that we did some more laying around
for the next couple of days. Energy gets zapped really easy here in Africa with
the heat and the low calorie intake of food.
While my mom
was here we also had to prepare for the opening ceremony of my health school.
So that meant going to the weekly market called a lumo, to buy supplies for
food. The lumo is a bustling African market full of raw foods and fabric sales
for clothes. A place where you see the butcher hacking away at meat on a table
on the main market road. Live animal sales are going on at the far end of the
market, including sheep, cattle, horse and many more. It’s the kind of place
where you can buy colorful African fabrics and have them tailored into anything
you like. It’s an ADHD person’s nightmare and an all-in-one shoppers dream. If
you can’t get it here you can’t get it anywhere. I actually love going to the
lumo because there is such a great energy and social atmosphere. Every time I
go I usually make 2 or 3 new friends and it’s not hard to forget me [Queue
white joke]. I have a breakfast lady, a fabric guy, and a phone man. The
markets in the capital are full of tourist traps and looters. The lumo is full
of friendly Gambians looking more for your friendship then your business. So if
you are going to buy, you buy it from a friend.
The opening
ceremony went great with a little help from me. (One of the PC goals is to be a
facilitator, not a worker, several villagers took charge of the program and it
went very smoothly). Gambian Programs
are always filled with lengthy speeches and lots of repetition- this one was no
different. We had about 2 hours of lengthy speeches and long drawn out thanks.
Including my speech in Wolof but mine was very short. Then we ate lunch and
most importantly, we danced! No African celebration is complete without
clanging pots and pans. With a shortage of real drums they bang on pots and
pans but with their amazing abilities you wouldn’t know the difference. Aimee
even got up there moving to the beat of the drum with Mom Gaye’s help. She went
out with a bang.
Literally, 3
days later she had to get on a plane and fly back to the States. A departure
filled with laughter and tears and an imprint of yellow, red, and green in her
mind. Don’t be surprised if her English sounds a little weird. That’s just
Gambian English. Don’t ask ‘why’ if she asks: How are you? How is the morning?
How is your family? How is the work? Peace Only. She is only greeting you. So
take it easy on her for a while because she saw those African children that
everyone talks about when you don’t finish a meal. But the truth is she knows
what their smiles look like.
African Creations
This will challenge me in every day,
It will take my heart and unstitch it.
The fibers of my being will be stretched to their limits,
And there will be nothing left but the bits of my soul.
This will challenge me in every way,
But the drum will replace the rhythm of my heart,
The thatch will bind what has fallen apart.
And my soul will have nothing but a new start.
This has challenged me in every way,
But what challenges me, creates me!
Willingness
It has been 12 months with about 14
months to go, just about at the half way point. I have adapted to my
environment where honestly couldn’t tell sometimes what would be considered
normal American behaviors. I think certain kaf-tans (local celebration attire,
a mid-thigh shirt with intricate embroidery)
would be quite nice back in America but from what I am told it would not
fly.
Adaptation is my body’s natural
response to survival and further more thriving in this environment, what 12
months ago was forgotten. Although, I don’t think that I am that different from
the general society. I think most of you could do this. Playing to the same
cord, just like I think any physically able bodied person can complete a
marathon. The most important ingredient being- willingness.
Willingness is to train 3 times a week for 6 months
Willingness is to leave everything you know and move to a
new continent.
Willingness is to cut certain foods out of your diet so you
have the energy to run 20 miles a week.
Willingness to wear someone else shoes
for a change or in the case of Africa, take your shoes off completely.
To be completely honest I am no
different than any of you because all humans can adapt. I just might be a
tiny bit more willing at times. This is where you might compare yourself to
those of us in the Peace Corps, but I challenge you to think differently.
Because willingness isn’t moving to Africa, it is accepting a challenge of
something that by most standards is considered difficult. Willingness isn’t
succeeding but the effort put forth in the attempts to succeed. “To laugh
often and love much; to win the respect of intelligent persons and the
affection of children; to earn the approbation of honest citizens and endure
the betrayal of false friends; to appreciate beauty; to find the best in
others; to give of one’s self; to leave the world a bit better, whether by a
healthy child, a garden patch or a redeemed social condition; to have played
and laughed with enthusiasm and sung with exultation; to know even one life
has breathed easier because you have lived—this is to have succeeded (Ralph
Waldo Emerson).” So go work with children or plant a garden. But if that
child doesn’t smile or the plants die.
“Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes courage is the quiet voice at the end
of the day saying, "I will try again tomorrow.”(Mary Anne Radmacher) This
is how I get through my days. What great is that it doesn’t only work in
Africa, it works everywhere.
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